Italy, Part 2 (Santo Stefano)

Let's hear it for the library and Budget Travel, without which we never would have discovered a delightful, out-of-the-way, relaxing paradise in the Italian countryside. Way back in the early fall we both read an article about some alberghos (hotels) in small Italian villages. It seemed like a great exercise is sustaining an old way of life while exposing new travelers to a small village. I'm fortunate in that N and I have very similar ideas about what is relaxing and what constitutes a good vacation: good wine, great food, plenty of rest (although I think I rank that one higher than N does), and time alone with one another. This place was the epitome of all those things, but when we arrived I was a bit nervous. I could see that there would be very little in the way of activities, per se. I had a book with me that I was dying to read, but I was worried that N would get bored and not like the place. Turns out I had nothing to worry about.

From their website (http://www.sextantio.it/):

The burgh's current urban structure was established in the Middle Ages during the then nascent castle-building phenomenon and features a landscape dotted by fortified highland habitats, still very much one of the historical and topographical elements characterising Central Italy today.
The area was known for its wool production, which kept such an isolated area on the map and involved in trading with larger towns such as Florence. The village eventually fell into disrepair and many residents left Santo Stefano for other parts of Italy. Today, there are several companies with whom you can stay, a few little stores that sell wine and jam and bread, one bar, a church, a handful of winter residents, and one restaurant. I imagine the summer months are quite busy, but it was pretty quiet over Christmas.

In the past several years, a small company spearheaded by a philospher has purchased numerous rooms and buildings spread throught this small village. They began restoring the property to its original form using local materials and labor. They used museum documents and photos and spoke with village elders to figure out what the rooms had been used for in the past, and, when possible, refurbished them for the same purpose in the present. The rooms all have modern ammenities disguised to feel like you've walked back in time- they're sparsely furnished but have a fireplace, a fantastic shower, and hidden electrical outlets, etc.

One of the best part of the whole experience was the food. We were served breakfast each morning in a large room with an ancient fireplace and an old olive oil press against the wall. All the ingredients and recipes are from the area, and the albergho owns some land surrounding the village in order to grow certain crops. We had salami, cheese, cereal, tarts, eggs, fruit, toast, cookies, coffee, tea- everything you could imagine for breakfast. We usually didn't need to eat lunch because we were so stuffed, so we snacked on some bread and cheese. Every night around 8:30 we would walk to the restaurant and be served a five course dinner with local wine by the most charming man, Vincenzo. There were only six tables in the place and they served the best food I've ever eaten. There is another gorgeous fireplace in the restaurant, and candles everywhere.

A typical dinner menu

Wine (Montepulciano)
Bread, cheese, salami, hard-boiled eggs, olives, and eggplant
Soup
Gnocchi with pumpkin sauce
Ravioli
Lamb with sauteed spinach
Pear cooked in brandy
Coffee or licquer

We would usually stumble out at 11 and head straight for bed. Bliss!

The staff spoke only Italian, which was fantastic. It's convenient but a little disappointing when we travel to places and rarely have to stretch ourselves to be understood. The locals who cared for the place were so gracious and seemed to take a lot of pride in their work. I felt like everything from the lights to the shape of the walls to the design of the sink had been considered and handpicked to make our stay fantastic. We read, we walked, we ate, we went to church on Christmas Day, and by the time we left I was unbelievably sad to do so. If you ever get a chance to visit this place, by all means, GO!

Some photos (you can click on the little conversation bubble to see my comments):



PS- I used my amazing interweb powers to find a site online where you can buy that totally awesome light fixture: click here.