Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Time Flies- Six Months in Abu Dhabi


It's hard to believe I've lived in Abu Dhabi for six months- I am convinced there is some sort of time warp here because the days and weeks and months go by so, so quickly. In mid-March I blinked and all of a sudden it was July 4th.

I loved living in Phoenix. It was wonderful for me professionally, and I identify closely with my work. Leaving that behind has been difficult. I also left such amazing friends who were there for me through everything. Although we still catch up, I miss being in their daily lives and having them in mine. And in the last few years, I fell in love with Central Phoenix- the historic homes, the restaurants, the coffee, the music. So much to see and do.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, December 2013
Still, I was so excited to jump into life in Abu Dhabi. The UAE has experienced such growth in the past 40 years, but especially in the recent past. What was once a rural desert is now one of the world's wealthiest, busiest countries full of luxury, lights, and glamour. There are a lot of exciting initiatives and I've never once said to myself "I'm bored."

View from our apartment, January 2014
One of the best things about living in the UAE is the mix of cultures. The vast majority of the population (~80%) are ex-pats from Europe, the US, and elsewhere. On any given day, I hear probably 5 or 6 languages being spoken. I've found that it's easy to meet people and everyone has been so warm and forthcoming with tips and sharing their favorites or connecting me with folks who may be able to help in some way. No one seems territorial at all, which is such a blessing.

Old Dubai, January 2014
The first thing everyone asks is not "where are you from?" but "how long have you been here?" Less than a few months and you're considered a newbie. More than that, you should have your shawarma and rug guys firmly established (we do).

Scouring for goodies, January 2014 (didn't get this one, so it might still be up for grabs!)
There are, of course, some challenges to being here (aside from missing my family terribly!). As you might have heard, driving in this part of the world is unbelievable. I've seen people turn left from a middle lane, effectively cutting off 2 lanes of traffic. Like any city, things take a lot of time here. Running errands- even 1 or 2- is a full day's work. Between parking and trying to find a particular place without the aid of addresses or consistent street names (yep- no addresses, and each street is known by a number and at least one name...), I'm always scrambling.

It's hard to tell, but there are cafes on the right and cars parked in a million
directions in front of them, blocking the street
As with many nearby countries, the opening hours for small businesses here are typically 10 to noon or 1 pm and again from about 4:30 to 10 pm. It requires some planning and more than once I've arrived at some place at 1:05 only to be met with a firmly closed door. Small businesses are also mostly closed on Fridays until late afternoon. Larger spots, including the malls, are open continuously and until very late at night. It's not unusual to see a family, including small children, going out for dinner at 9 or 10. During the Holy Month of Ramadan, stores are open even later- until 11 or midnight, at least.

Near the Corniche, Abu Dhabi, February 2014
Manarat al Saadiyat, February 2014
Emiratis are so, so kind and warm. I spend time with a few Emirati woman and they are some of the funniest, most creative people I've been around. They first time I went to one of their homes, I was unexpectedly fed a made-to-order lunch before being told I could come back anytime, for any reason. How lovely!

Catching up with the girls, Spring 2014
Emirati woman demonstrating traditional palm weaving, Qasr al Hosn Festival
I've heard from friends (and felt similarly at times) who wish everyday Abu Dhabi felt more "authentic" or "traditional." I remind myself that AD is remarkable for what it's become in just four decades. There is so much to discover, including hole-in-the-wall restaurants (amazing Indian lunch deals!), hand-tailored clothes (and fabric from all over the world!), traditional handicrafts, and new cultural celebrations. That you have to dig for it among the brand new towers and international luxury stores and hotel buffets makes the find that much better.

Corniche walkway, downtown Abu Dhabi
Abu Dhabi and Dubai are such great jumping off points for travel in the region and beyond. In six months, I've had the privilege to visit five new countries (with an unexpected visit back home, too), including places that I've been dreaming about for years. We've only explored 3 emirates so far, and I definitely want to see as much of the UAE as possible during the rest of our time here. Some of my other UAE must-dos this year are camping in the desert, going to camel races, enjoying tea at one of the fancy hotels, getting a few sailing lessons, and attending an Iftar meal (more on that later).

Sand surfing in the desert, March 2014
As I mentioned, there is always something going on- a new exhibit to see, a new restaurant opening, a market I'm dying to visit, or a film screening just down the road. One of my favorite things to do is drive to Dubai on either Friday or Saturday morning for the foodie markets. Less farmers' market, more food truck and clothes/crafts/furniture, but definitely my style. It reminds me of Phoenix and, to a lesser extent, markets in Europe. I'm looking forward to cooler weather and picnics in the park!

Market in Dubai, Spring 2014
Sunrise Nation, dancing our tails off before 8 am, Dubai, June 2014
I've also found some great events and venues in Dubai, including something similar to TED-talks (I saw one of Saudi Arabia's first female attorneys share her story, which was astonishing), an early morning dance party/yoga class/drum circle, and a make-your-own kaftan class that I hope to visit. As with most places, you can be as involved as you want to be here.

A new- and very popular- traveling food truck, May 2014
We're getting our first overnight guest later this month, and I'm looking forward to playing host in my new home. I've always found that having visitors is a great way to explore your own city and see it with fresh eyes and a sense of humor, when needed. I'm hoping that more of our friends and family (I'll get you final dates soon, Mom- I promise!) will brave the long, expensive flight over to see what Abu Dhabi and the UAE are all about.

Choosing fabrics, May 2014
I'm sure they'll be as charmed as I am.

Al Ain Palace Museum, former home of UAE's founder Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, May 2014

2 comments:

dmm said...

Love love loved this post. Thanks for the update and educating me on where you are living!!! XOXOX

Mom said...

Driving in AD reminds me of driving in St. Petersburg, FL!
Can't wait to be added to your list of overnight guests!