On a Whim - Two Days in Bahrain

Our trip to India sparked some serious wanderlust and a deep desire to hit the road again. I kinda sorta invited myself on a trip to Morocco with my friend Kera, who was going to source rugs for her spectacular online shop, Interwoven, but the timing just didn't work out. I've been dying to get back to Morocco- it's been TEN years since I lived and studied there for a semester- and it's still on my list. Still, there is so much to see in the middle east and I definitely want to travel as much as I can in the Gulf region while we live here. So, Bahrain it was!

Michelle and I at Bahrain Fort, just prior to melting

I get asked a lot how I've discovered some event or product or place around here. Most commonly, the answer is: Instagram. Seriously. I find it to be such an easy, fun way to explore. I'm definitely a visual person, and there are so many really creative people on Insta that I can't get enough (to Hubs' chagrin). I definitely still read a few blogs faithfully, including the one that led me to Kera and one written by a fabulous, funny, and crafty woman in San Diego, Elise. I can't remember how I found Elise's blog, but she definitely inspires with her entrepreneurship and adorable little family. One of her weekly roundup posts in early January caught my eye- a link to one of her friends who just moved to Bahrain.

I immediately started following her on Instagram and yadda, yadda, yadda, we began corresponding about our similar experiences and love for travel. We talked about taking a trip together (which will happen someday, I'm sure of it) but for now, it was easiest for me to visit her for a few days in Bahrain. It's so easy to get there- just a cheap ticket and one short flight- that it seemed crazy not to go, especially with a place to stay and a really great host to show me around.

Michelle (and her lovely kiddos) were so gracious and fun. We hit it off right away and went directly from the airport to her favorite pottery place. I tried my hand at throwing and then picked out a traditional lamp made by the professionals. We spent the rest of the first day sampling the best grape leaves, taking a dip in the pool, and playing Uno.

It's been awhile since I threw on the wheel...not like riding a bike!

The next day we drove to the handicraft center to take a look at the weavers, carvers, potters, and boat makers. My favorite was watching Ahmed weave fabric to turn into beautiful scarves (you know one came home with me). He was so patient with our questions and let us take a million pictures. He sits with legs below the ground and uses his feet to alternate pedals, which pull apart the cotton strings so he can deftly toss the (get ready for the least precise description ever) wooden spool through the two, then switch pedals and do it all again.

The entire weaving room

Ahmed, sitting below the ground

The sound and the rhythmic action were mesmerizing. Ahmed weaves several feet each day and when it's time to switch to a different color to begin again, it takes hours to tie new strings to the ends of the previous scarf. He comes from a long line of weavers and his work was stunning.

We followed up with a visit to the royal camel stables and a trip to a Moroccan store that Michelle heard about from a friend. We had a great time wandering, oohing and ahhing over the great tagines and dishes. One couple was choosing a whole collection of the colorful bowls and plates, and if I hadn't already chosen the pottery to hand carry home, I would have purchased some dishes. I got to chat with a Moroccan couple about groceries and the beauty products on display- lots of fun to practice my French for the first time in ages! I have a feeling Michelle will be back soon.

 

After a quick Moroccan lunch (we couldn't resist), we headed home to pick up the kids from school and head out to the lagoon for my first Stand Up Paddleboard (SUP) lesson. Michelle and her husband both have boards and have been able to use them as much if not more than they did in California. I was pretty sure I would spend most of the time in the water or fighting my back up on the board, but the water was so smooth and Michelle was such a great teacher that I, remarkably, paddled the whole time. She even convinced me to try a little yoga on the board and now I'm ready for my first SUP yoga class! I found it so relaxing and a great workout- highly recommended!

That night the kids humored me and tolerated our quest for dinner in Al Adliya, a pedestrian, artsy part of town. While Abu Dhabi definitely has neighborhoods with groups of restaurants or shops, Bahrain felt different- smaller in scale (one and two story buildings rather than enormous towers everywhere), more traditional and arts-focused (but not in a museumy-way- more street art), maybe more small stores and boutiques (I haven't found things like the pottery studio here, except during festivals). It was familiar but different.

 

 

 

Advice in Al Adliya

On my last morning, we met one of Michelle's friends in the souk for breakfast and a little walking tour of the old buildings. The Bahraini government has been restoring old structures in the souk and repurposing them into cafes, museums, and concert halls. The redone buildings blend seamlessly in with the everyday, and it's not until you peek behind the doors that you see the incredible design and love poured into the projects. I wish Abu Dhabi had a similar souk, but there isn't one to speak of.

Shops in the souk

Great wall art in the souk

A woman demonstrating kurar, traditional embroidery with metal threads

The last stop was breakfast at Saffron Cafe, a place I'd read about in Brownbook, a great magazine about the middle east. Breakfast was delicious- beans, eggs, sandwiches, tea, and more than the three of us could possible eat! Again, the space was incredibly well-designed, with a glass-covered floor to show off the madbasa (date press) found during construction. We also wandered the souk for a bit, but things were a bit off since there had been a large and damaging fire in one of the sweet shops the day prior.

Breakfast at Saffron

I had such a relaxing, fun time in Bahrain. It's the perfect place for a short trip- so much to see but not completely overwhelming like Rome or Paris. Michelle writes a great travel blog and just started selling some amazing notecards based on some drawings she did when she arrived in Bahrain. I can't wait to see what else she's going to come up with during her time in the country!

Michelle- get yourself over to the UAE so I can return the favor!